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June 14, 2012
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Custom Patternmaking Tutorial: Part 1 by Kennadee Custom Patternmaking Tutorial: Part 1 by Kennadee
**EDIT:As it turns out, all the photos I had for the second tutorial have been lost because I lost my SD card.... yes, I am just that klutzy. The blocking method allowed me to work out how I really wanted my piece to look, which things I wanted to eliminate or keep. In the end, I kept the side darts, and got rid of the shoulder strap, since I felt it really didn't feel like "Ariel" to me. I used elastic and gathering along the bodice top to give a very slight reflection of Ariel's shell bra.
I'm going to try to make another tutorial when I have time...


Sorry for the HUGE file!! ;m;
If you found this tutorial useful, or use it, tell me! I always like to see what everyone makes! You're all so talented and wonderful!! : )

If anyone has any questions, feel free to place them in the comments! And I will answer them.
Here are a few I've already answered:

Q: I don't have a sewing form. What do I do?
A: Well, you could either save up and buy one, or if that's not cost effective, you could make a DTD. DTD stands for "Duct Tape Dummy". Making one isn't the nicest experience, but it's pretty cheap and useful. For how to make one, visit this site: [link].

Q: I can't find ______. Where do I find one?
A: Most of the supplies, if not all of them, that are listed in this tutorial are common in any sewing store. If there aren't any nearby, then I highly recommend shopping online for them. They're all cheap, even the scissors. As far as I know, most of the measuring tapes and rulers have both Metric and Imperial written onto them, aside from the yard stick.

Q: I've never made a pattern before, so I'm not sure I want to start from scratch. But I also don't want to just alter a commercial pattern. What are my options?
A:I have a post on my tumblr ([link]) that talks about all of the best resources for sewing. One of them is a book called "Patterns for Theatrical Costuming". It was my textbook when I learned this method of patternmaking. In it, there are hundreds of historical patterns drawn out in block form, and in 1/8 scale. That means that for every 1/8in on a seam gague, it's an inch in real life. This makes blocking out these patterns and then altering them in real life, very easy! I highly recommend it! We use it in the theatre all the time to make quick, easily re-sizable patterns.

I really like your resources and sewing! Do you have more examples and tutorials?
I only recently started to post my costumes and sewing tutorials on deviantart. However, my tumblr is littered with them! There's a certain post on my tumblr ([link]) where I keep a running list of all of my costuming resources. Feel free to check it out often and see if I've added any new ones. Chances are, I have. Also, I post a lot more WIPs and how-to's on my tumblr, just because it's easier than using the dA system. If you'd like to see more of my work, follow me on tumblr! : )
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:iconmadison999:
Madison999 Featured By Owner Feb 2, 2013
I love this tutorial!I know this is a stupid question but how can I get to part 2?I just can't seem to find the link for it.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Feb 3, 2013
Thank you!
There is no part 2. That's written in the artist's comments. I haven't had time to do any other tutorials.
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:iconcharmed-ravenclaw:
Charmed-Ravenclaw Featured By Owner Dec 31, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
You have been featured here: [link]
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Dec 31, 2012
Aww thank you!!
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:iconcharmed-ravenclaw:
Charmed-Ravenclaw Featured By Owner Oct 19, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
This was really helpful thank you. I would have loved to see part 2 but this is great.
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:iconlillian-darling:
Lillian-Darling Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
For a noob way of fitting patterns to yourself you can use a t-shirt that fits you well. You can make patterns off of any clothes you own, just keep in mind where the seams are. I sew without the maniquen dummy she uses above. Yeah... real noob like there....
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
I wouldn't say it's the "noob" way... there's just easier ways for doing the same thing sometimes. And some ways benefit professionals better than others. : )
It's true you can make patterns off of clothes you own, but the point of making your own patterns is to create clothes and styles that haven't existed before. It's also great if you're a very large or very small size and can't find commercial patterns in your size.
Also, for people like me, who are work making clothes for customers based off of their specifications, it's important to have accurate measurements. Just taking apart clothes, or sewing without a mannequin makes that pretty much impossible.
Either way, I'm sure you make great things!! : )
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:iconlillian-darling:
Lillian-Darling Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
I make stuffed animals. Don't really need a pattern for that but clothes are difficult to make. But for first time sewer's it's probably best to base it off of something you own when your not very good with exact measurements.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Very true, which I why I started off the tutorial that this sort of patternmaking isn't for beginner sewers and gave them suggestions for starting off. And that's awesome you make stuffed animals! I've thought about doing that myself, but I'm pretty sure I'll never stop being obsessed with clothes, haha!
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:iconlillian-darling:
Lillian-Darling Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
It's probably best you make clothes and I make stuffed animals. And honestly I didn't read the fine print. Call me lazy but no hard feelings.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Hahaha no worries. A lot of people don't, and I did type a lot. Do you post photos of your creations? I bet they're really awesome! : )
Reply
:iconlillian-darling:
Lillian-Darling Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
Haven't uploaded any of them yet but I'm working on it.
Reply
:iconastraikitsune:
AstraIKitsune Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
Wow, really helpful!!
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Good! I'm glad it's helpful! It'd be bad if it wasn't!! XD
Reply
:iconastraikitsune:
AstraIKitsune Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student General Artist
Haha, true, but it really is VERY useful!
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:iconmorgainea:
MorgaineA Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Your wonderful keep up the good work!
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Thank you! : )
Reply
:iconkaoneko:
KaoNeko Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Awesome, watching this tutorial is very inspiring, even when i dont do any fabric or needle work
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
<3!!!
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:iconapynip:
apynip Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student Artisan Crafter
I do this for some of my projects! except i use a right angle that is the height and width I need then do the measurements from the inside, out instead of the outside, in!. I started when I learned it from some old victorian patterns. Good clear tutorial.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Aww yeah. I think everyone does this type of patternmaking a little differently. I've found that the blocking method is a really good start to patternmaking. I know a lot of people use the draping method, and I do too... but for people who've never made patterns or aren't professionals at sewing, I feel the blocking method tends to be a little bit easier to wrap your head around? Haha. And thanks! I'm glad it was clear and easy to understand. : )
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:iconapynip:
apynip Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Student Artisan Crafter
My method of pattern making depends on what I'm working on like most people. Sometimes block, sometimes draping, sometimes pattern slashing, it honestly depends on the garment in mind.

Oh, and I was self taught so you probably know how to properly do the block better than I do. Sometimes I just guess where I like goes.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
I very much agree with this. Some projects just can't be blocked easily, and draping is much faster. Sometimes slashing is fantastic, mostly for Disney costumes, since most of them don't have their own patterns. : )
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:icontechnoplasma:
technoplasma Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
Wow fantastic tutorial!
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Thank you! : )
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:iconriotfaerie:
riotfaerie Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
Helpful! I'm new to this so needed something basic to get me started.
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:iconkennadee:
Kennadee Featured By Owner Jun 15, 2012
Ah! Welcome to the world of patternmaking. : )
This method of patternmaking, the blocking method, is usually what I'd recommend to beginner patternmakers. It's a lot easier to "block out" the math and learn how to re-size things, than draping on a model. Plus, generally when you use the draping method, you're adding in things like darts, etc. If you're not trying to go for something super fitted, or you're just learning... yeah, this method is great.
I'd VERY much suggest getting the book I mentioned in my artist's comments? It talks about all sorts of patternmaking and lays it out very nicely for you (aka, easy to understand). Also, there's hundreds of patterns to choose from, so there's a lot you can cover and make. : ) Good luck! I'd love to see what you create!!
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